<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8" standalone="yes"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"><channel><title>Audio on PCB Isolation</title><link>https://pcbisolation.com/tags/audio/</link><description>Recent content in Audio on PCB Isolation</description><generator>Hugo</generator><language>en</language><lastBuildDate>Thu, 23 Oct 2014 00:00:00 +0000</lastBuildDate><atom:link href="https://pcbisolation.com/tags/audio/index.xml" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml"/><item><title>2×15″ Home Subwoofers, Car Amp, &amp; Server Power Supply</title><link>https://pcbisolation.com/blog/home-subwoofers/</link><pubDate>Thu, 23 Oct 2014 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate><guid>https://pcbisolation.com/blog/home-subwoofers/</guid><description>&lt;p>After half a semester of college, I learned that my 8″, 40W woofer wasn&amp;rsquo;t enough. I wanted something bigger, but didn&amp;rsquo;t
want to have to upgrade again in the future. So I decided on something reasonable for any 10&amp;rsquo;x15′ dorm room - two 15″
subwoofers powered by a 1000W car amp. My goals: keep it under $400, design it so one of the two subs can be placed in a
car and be powered from a 12V source (like a car battery), and build them to be as durable as possible.&lt;/p></description></item><item><title>Mazda 2 Quickest Subwoofer Installation Ever</title><link>https://pcbisolation.com/blog/mazda2-subwoofer/</link><pubDate>Thu, 05 Jun 2014 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate><guid>https://pcbisolation.com/blog/mazda2-subwoofer/</guid><description>&lt;p>&lt;a href="mazda2-subwoofer-07.jpg">&lt;img alt="mazda2-subwoofer-07" loading="lazy" src="https://pcbisolation.com/blog/mazda2-subwoofer/mazda2-subwoofer-07.jpg">&lt;/a>&lt;/p>
&lt;p>Running wire, head unit adapters, fuses, and less trunk space all suck. Let&amp;rsquo;s not do that. Modular setups seem more
promising.&lt;/p>
&lt;p>A few months ago, &lt;a href="http://pcbisolation.wordpress.com/2014/01/05/sixdollarsub/">I assembled a $6 tube subwoofer&lt;/a> that
could be used in a house or in a car. I only recently set up my car for this sub. It took an hour. No new head unit
required.&lt;/p>
&lt;p>There&amp;rsquo;s only one real compromise to this, only the audio coming from the auxiliary port is sent to the sub. That&amp;rsquo;s how I
listen to music 95% of the time, so no subwoofer with the CD player or radio is fine for me. I tapped into the auxiliary
output right next to the cigarette lighter, so I ran power from there. The cigarette lighter is only on when the car is
on, so I don&amp;rsquo;t have to worry about draining the battery when the car is off. There are no power supply issues, as the
cigarette lighter supplies 20A, while the sub only draws 4A max.&lt;/p></description></item><item><title>Powered Subwoofer &amp; Box Build</title><link>https://pcbisolation.com/blog/powered-subwoofers/</link><pubDate>Sun, 17 Feb 2013 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate><guid>https://pcbisolation.com/blog/powered-subwoofers/</guid><description>&lt;p>&lt;a href="logitech-z340-06.jpg">&lt;img alt="logitech-z340-06" loading="lazy" src="https://pcbisolation.com/blog/powered-subwoofers/logitech-z340-06.jpg">&lt;/a>&lt;/p>
&lt;p>Kicker&amp;rsquo;s Free Airs left a legacy in the market. They have almost no enclosure requirements and are often drop-in
upgrades.&lt;/p>
&lt;p>I picked up two used 6.5″ Kicker Free Air subwoofers. &amp;ldquo;Free Air&amp;rdquo; is a misnomer, they still need an enclosure. However
the enclosure space can be relatively large. The trunk of your car could be considered an enclosure, as long as the
space in front of these speaker is sealed off from the space behind these speakers. I don&amp;rsquo;t plan to put these in a car,
they are going to be for a home sound system. I like the early 2000&amp;rsquo;s sub look that these Kickers have: thickly stitched
cones, paint chipped rusting frame, rotting seal, and corroded leads. At one point they were very nice, now they are
fair. I can deal with fair speakers if they are free.&lt;/p></description></item></channel></rss>